Is Soundproofing All Or Nothing? Can You Go Halfway?

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If you've ever thought, “I don’t need to fully soundproof my room; maybe I can just soundproof one wall and stop the noise on the other side,” then this article is for you!

In this lesson, I'll explore when you might be able to get away with partial soundproofing without extensive construction and when it’s better to save your money and avoid the project altogether. Let’s dive in!

 

 

Why Soundproofing Is Usually All or Nothing

You may have heard me or others say, “Soundproofing is an all-or-nothing project,” and I stand by this 90% of the time. Sound expands in all directions in a 360-degree bubble, especially at low frequencies. This means sound doesn’t just travel in a straight line through one wall into your room—it also moves through floors, ceilings, windows, doors, HVAC ducts, and roofs.

For this reason, soundproofing only a shared wall with your neighbor might not stop unwanted noise. Let’s look at why this is the case.

 

  1. A Soundproof Room Requires Mass on All Surfaces

In soundproofing, mass is the primary tool to block sound and reflect it back in the direction it came from. A solid 12-inch concrete wall, for example, will effectively stop most sound. The more mass we add, the less likely high, mid, and even low frequencies will pass through. For louder or lower frequencies, you’ll need substantial mass on all walls, ceilings, and floors, including windows and doors.

  2. A Soundproof Room Is Decoupled from the Outside World

After adding mass, the next essential step is decoupling the room from the outside structure. This means isolating the sound so it doesn’t travel through structural elements like joists, studs, and drywall. Mass can block airborne noise, while decoupling prevents sound transmission through these structural pathways.

For example, if you put your ear to a metal railroad rail, you’ll hear a train from miles away. Sound travels faster and more efficiently through solid materials than air, as it would through concrete. A concrete wall might stop airborne noise like traffic but won’t prevent sound from passing through its structure.

Consider a neighbor with a subwoofer on their floor. Even with a heavy wall, sound and bass vibrations will travel through the shared floor, making the wall less effective and wasting your investment in soundproofing.

  3. A Soundproof Room Must Be Airtight

Finally, a soundproof room must be airtight. Sound, like water, can seep through even the smallest gaps. Have you ever closed a heavy door but still heard noise coming in around the edges? Or maybe you’ve noticed sounds coming through an older home’s air leaks?

Without airtight sealing around walls, ceilings, floors, windows, doors, and HVAC systems, sound can still enter or exit your room, undermining your soundproofing efforts.

 

 

When Can You Soundproof Halfway? Is It Possible?

As I mentioned, there’s a small percentage of cases (around 10%) where partial soundproofing might work. Here’s when it might be viable:

  • You have a heavy concrete floor and ceiling.
  • You don’t have windows or doors near the wall you want to soundproof.
  • There are no shared HVAC ducts with the room you want to block sound from.

If you meet these conditions, you might get away with soundproofing a single “party wall” (the shared wall with a neighbor who hosts parties).

Keep in mind that even in these cases, halfway soundproofing offers no guarantees. The results are often unpredictable, so you need to carefully weigh the risks of a partial solution.

 

 

What About Light Soundproofing?

Some people ask about “light soundproofing,” usually meaning they don’t want to spend a lot of money or time and don’t need full noise blockage. You might consider light soundproofing if:

  • You don’t need to block low frequencies and only want to reduce mid and high frequencies.
  • You’re not dealing with loud sounds, like a barking dog or a train horn.
  • You don’t make a lot of noise yourself, such as playing drums, using a subwoofer, or cranking up a guitar amp.

If these criteria fit, you may be able to get away with lighter soundproofing measures. But if you’re trying to create a truly quiet space, this approach likely won’t be sufficient.

 

 

Conclusion

As you can see, in most cases, soundproofing is all or nothing. If you’re committed to doing it right, with the necessary financial and technical resources, then it’s worth the effort. Otherwise, it’s often better to leave the project until you’re ready to commit fully.

If you’re intrigued and want to learn more about soundproofing, check out my free soundproofing workshop (link below). Or, if you’re short on time and prefer to hire a professional, click the Soundproof Your Studio logo above to schedule a clarity call where I can learn more about your project.

Best of luck on your soundproofing journey!